| |
WHAT REALLY
HAPPENED
AT SANTO CERRO?
Origin of the Legend
of the Virgin de las Mercedes
by
Dr. Lynne Guitar
(Ph.D. History & Anthropology)
Taino Anthropology/History Editor,
Caribbean Amerindian Centrelink.
Apartado Postal Z-111
Zona Colonial
Santo Domingo
Republica Dominicana
Telephone: (809) 221-6471
(809) 682-2561 Pager: (809) 475-7279
Fax: (809) 221-4167 "ATTN: Lynne
Guitar"
Website:
Student
and Researcher Services, Santo Domingo
E-Mail: lynneguitar@yahoo.com
© 2001, Lynne Guitar. All
rights reserved.
-
Victors write the history books, telling about
conquests and cultural clashes from their own point of view. Sometimes
it’s impossible to figure out what really happened, but, using historical
evidence and anthropological methods, we can get at least get a glimmer of
how an episode in the past really played out. That’s what I’ve
attempted to do here with the first major battle that ever took place
between Europeans and Amerindians--the Battle of Santo Cerro in March of
1495.
-
- On March 14, 1495, Admiral/Governor/Viceroy
Christopher Columbus and 200 armored Spanish infantrymen, 20 armored Spanish
horsemen, and an uncounted number of Taínos--Cacique Guacanagarí’s
men[1]--arrived at the site known
as Santo Cerro (“Holy Hill”), a little to the northwest of today’s town
of La Vega in the Dominican Republic. They had left the settlement
of La Isabela on the north coast and marched through the Pass of the Hidalgos
en route to the main cacicazgo of Guarionex, in the heart of the mountainous,
gold-bearing Cibao[2]; just how long
the march took is not mentioned in any of the surviving records.
The Indians in the group probably outnumbered their Spanish allies by at
least three to one, but the same thing happened as happened with battles
later on in American history: the Europeans took all the credit in
the stories that they told about the battle that ensued, minimizing the
parts played by their Indian allies or leaving them entirely out of the
official accounts. The goal of the army of Spanish and Taíno
warriors led by Columbus was to stamp out the increasing Indian attacks
against the Spaniards and establish a firm foothold in the gold-bearing
region where, until now, they had only one small fort, Santo Tomás
on the Jánico River—the name Santo Tomás, named for the Bible’s
“Doubting Thomas,” was a riposte to those who had publicly expressed their
doubt that Columbus would find much gold on Hispaniola. The Taíno
cacique who had given them the most trouble to date, Caonabó (who
was supposedly the leader of the Taínos who massacred the 39 Spaniards
whom Columbus left behind at Fort la Navidad on his first voyage) had been
captured, put aboard a ship bound for judgment in Spain, and had died at
sea. But the attacks did not stop. One of Caonabó’s
brothers, named Manicaotex, was now leading the attacks against the Spaniards
out of the cacicazgo of the Cacique Guarionex, which was tributary to Caonabó’s
cacicazgo of Maguá.
-
- The Spaniards chose the site of Santo
Cerro because it provided a clear view of the Cibao Valley below and because
it was relatively easy to defend. It is a high, steep mountain on
the northern edge of the vast chain called the Cordillera Central.
From atop Santo Cerro, one can see across the entire Cibao Valley (approximately
24 kms. wide at this point), all the way northeast to the narrow but high
mountain passes of the Cordillera Septentrional that give way to the Atlantic
Coast near today’s Puerto Plata. What a sight awaited Columbus and
his men as they looked down upon the valley in the early light of dawn.
Reports vary, and the numbers probably grew over time, as often happens
with legendary battles, but somewhere between 30,000 and 100,000 Taínos,
the combined forces of Manicaotex and Guarionex, were gathered at the foot
of Santo Cerro, ready to do battle with the Spaniards and Guacanagarí’s
men. Witnesses later testified that there were “Indians as far as
the eye could see.”
-
- The Spaniards descended to do battle
and, despite their Indian allies, their cavalrymen, arquebuses, and advanced
fighting strategies that had been polished throughout 800 years of fighting
Moors back in Spain, they could not gain any headway against the Taíno
warriors. Outnumbered and out fought, the Spaniards were beaten back
and back, up the steep mountain. Sources vary about how many days
the battle lasted. It appears to have been about ten days later (March
25, 1495) that Columbus ordered his men into the palenque, a palisaded
area on the highest part of the mountain that he had ordered his Indian
allies to construct. There Columbus made a cross out of the wood
of a local nispero tree,[3]
where they all prayed for success in the next day’s battle, which all believed
would be their last. That night, said the witnesses, the Spaniards
wailed and prayed, dreading the dawn and the deaths that they were certain
awaited them.
-
- Certain defeat was avoided by a series
of miracles that occurred during the night, or so eyewitnesses reported.
In the early hours after nightfall, enemy Indians tried to burn down the
Spaniards’ cross, but they could only scorch it, despite all the dry firewood
they piled around it. Unsuccessful in burning down the hated Christian
symbol, they tried to pull the cross down, using thick vines of the bejuco
plant, but couldn’t pull it down. Frustrated, they tried to chop
the cross down with their stone axes, but were also unsuccessful.
Fray Juan Infante of the Order of Mercederians was Columbus’s private confessor.
He not only witnessed all of the above Indian attacks on the cross, but
was witness to a far more miraculous event. At about 9 PM, he claims
he saw a light descend and envelop the cross, while a lady dressed all
in white, with a baby in her arms, appeared on the right arm of the cross.
He declared that the Virgen de las Mercedes (“The Virgin of Blessings”)
had come to save the day for the Spaniards. And it certainly appeared
to be so. In the morning, when the weary, bloody, frightened Spanish
troops got up, ready to descend the mountain to do battle to the death,
there was no one there to fight! Columbus ordered his men to kneel
and pray in thanks to the Virgen de las Mercedes for their miraculous victory
and to build a fortress at the foot of Santo Cerro, just one-half league
from Cacique Guarionex’s main population center.[4]
-
- That’s how the story of the first major
battle between Europeans and Indians, and the legend of the Virgen de las
Mercedes, have come down to us in history. But, as the truism goes,
victors write the histories--and they very seldom include the viewpoint
of the “other,” in this case the enemy Taínos, who left us no written
account of their own. As an anthropologist who specializes in the
history and culture of the Taínos, however, I think I know how the
above events can be explained from a less Euro-centric viewpoint:
That battle, the very first major battle between Europeans and Indians,
was a clash not only of warriors and weaponry, but of traditions and beliefs.
The Taínos did not know that Spaniards fought to the death, or at
least until one side officially surrendered and a treaty agreement was
negotiated, spelling out the terms of both the conquest and the defeat.
Conversely, the Spaniards did not know that Taínos fought (albeit
rarely) until one side was clearly the winner. No written surrender
or official treaty was needed. The gain was clear for all to see,
so the battle ended, and both sides went back home to continue the normal
cycle of life. At Santo Cerro in March of 1495, it appears that both
the Taínos and the Spaniards thought they had won. The Taínos,
knowing that they were clearly the victors, having beaten the Spaniards
back and up the mountain as far as they could go, just went home the night
the battle ended, as was their norm--the attacks on the cross may have
been a final nose-flip at the losers. When the Spaniards awoke to
an empty battlefield, they assumed that the Taínos had fled!
As for the indestructible cross, I suggest that Columbus didn’t have a
nispero tree cut down to “plant” the cross as witnesses’ testimony suggests,
but that he made the cross out of a living tree that was rooted deeply
into the earth, hence was difficult to pull down—and its green, living
wood would be difficult to burn or to cut down with stone axes. The
white light and descent of the Virgin onto the arm of the cross that only
Fray Juan Infante saw, I believe were sincere attempts to explain—most
likely in retrospect—the miraculous triumph of the Spaniards over the Taínos.
-
- Details of the next days and weeks are
not available. More battles must have occurred, for Columbus and
his men took over Guarionex’s main population center and built Fort Concepción
de la Vega there. The site quickly became a major European-style
city, center of the island’s early gold mining industry until an earthquake
destroyed it on November 2, 1564. [5]
How did the Spaniards manage to take over? My best guess is that
Guarionex was caught off guard, thinking the battle over, and Manicoatex
and his warriors had probably returned to Maguá. It is also
quite likely that, with so many Spaniards in the vicinity for more than
ten days, the Taínos of the Cibao began to fall ill of diseases
to which they had no natural immunities, thus didn’t put up much of a fight….
By 1508, the year in which the Spanish Royal Crown granted it a royal city
shield, Concepción de la Vega was larger and more populous than
the capital city of Santo Domingo, and in 1511 it was raised to a bishopric.
(The famous Bartolomé de las Casas, a Dominican friar and Royal
Protector of the Indians, celebrated his first Mass there.) La Vega
continued to have a larger population than the capital until it was abandoned
in 1564, the year it was destroyed by a hurricane, by which time the easily
mined gold had long run out. The present-day La Vega, much smaller
than the original city, was relocated to its present site, a few kilometers
to the southwest.
-
- Shortly after the miraculous battle
of Santo Cerro in 1495, parts of the wood from the original cross that
Columbus is said to have planted was splintered into thousands of little
fragments that were enshrined at churches all over the island. Some
fragments were sent to Spain, to Italy, and to other European countries,
fetching high prices, for it was said that they had miraculous powers:
One only had to drink a “tea” made of powder from the wood from the holy
cross to be cured of any fever. Another legend arose connected to
the cross and the Virgin de las Mercedes: It was said that no matter
how many splinters were taken from the cross, it grew new wooden arms to
replace them--one doesn’t have to be a specialist to guess that human greed
was the origin of that particular legend. A small hermitage was built
at the site of the cross, and many of the faithful made pilgrimages to
it, hoping to get a glimpse of the virgin dressed in white, or at least
to ask her intercession in their prayers to the Lord.
-
- In 1880, the beautiful white church
that presently stands atop Santo Cerro was built to replace the small hermitage.
Today, Santo Cerro is still a popular pilgrimage site for the faithful[6]
as well as an attraction for tourists. The view across the Cibao
Valley from its bleacher-like outdoor amphitheater is breathtaking.
A tall nispero tree grows beside the church, with signs explaining that
Columbus’s cross was made of the wood of this tree. Inside the church,
in a small chapel to the south of the central nave, is the glassed-over
hole where Columbus’s cross once stood—the miracle must have finally run
its course, for there is no sign of wood to be seen in the hole and no
splinters of the cross for sale. Canny merchants of the little town
that’s grown up on the site do, however, sell pictures of the famous Virgin
de las Mercedes on everything from t-shirts to miniature crosses and holy
cards, in addition to icy-cold water, soft drinks, fast food, and the region’s
special bread, ojardra, which is made of yucca starch and spices,
and is baked in unusual beehive-shaped ovens.
-
La Virgen de las Mercedes
-
- The Church of Santo Cerro is open daily
from 9 AM to 6 PM, but is closed from noon-2 PM. There is no fee
to enter and no dress code, but please remember that it is a Catholic church
and holy shrine. The ruins of the original city of Concepción
de la Vega are now preserved in the National Park of La Vega Vieja, which
is open daily from 8:30 AM- 3:30 PM; there is an entry fee of RD$45 for
foreign visitors; RD$20 for Dominican nationals. It is located eight
kilometers from the main Autopista Duarte, along the road that leads from
La Vega to Moca. Excavation and restoration of the ruins began in
1976. There is a small museum on site with a collection of both Taíno
and Spanish artifacts that were uncovered during the work, though many
of the finds are now at the Museo de las Casas Reales in the capital.
The original Fuerte de la Concepción is in amazingly good shape,
including the fort’s six cross-shaped window slits that allowed Spaniards
inside to shoot at the Indians outside, while remaining protected behind
a circle of thick brick-and-stone walls. The rest of the old city’s
buildings, however, with the exception of the brick building that protected
the community’s water reservoir, were shaken down by major earthquakes
in 1564 and 1842, as well as by the passage of time. Only foundations
remain and as-yet-unexcavated mounds, but it is easy to see how extensive
the city once was. The major residential area, which is also where
the church was, has yet to be excavated because the family that owns the
land (and lives in buildings built among and over top of the ruins) will
not cede permission. About one kilometer west of the national park
are the ruins of the Franciscan Monastery, which was built beside a vast
Taíno cemetery. Eager guides will show you what they believe
the various rooms of the monastery used to be and will lift the lids off
the graves to show you the Taínos buried in their customary fetal
position. There is no official entrance fee, but the guides appreciate
RD$50-100 for their services.
[1]Cacique
is the Taíno word for “chief” and his cacicazgo was the geographical
region within which he was the political leader. Guacanagarí
was the cacique of the region where Columbus’s flagship, the Santa María,
wrecked aboard a reef on Christmas Eve 1492. Gucanagarí was
the Spaniards’ first Native American ally.
[2]
Columbus called the fertile valley La Vega Real, which translates literally
as “The Royal Lowlands,” but it continued to be called locally by its native
name, and still is today.
[3]
Nispero’s botanical name is medlar; commonly called Japanese persimmon.
[4]
There is a small shrine to the Virgin today where the fortress once was,
and stations of the cross lead up the hill to what was once the palisaded
area and where, today, there is a church and educational complex devoted
to the Virgin de las Mercedes. In a small wing of the church you
can still see the “Holy Hole” where the miraculous cross was.
[5]
Today the ruins of the original Spanish city, which is called La Vega Vieja
by locals, are protected by the country’s national park services.
The current city of La Vega is a few kilometers southwest.
[6]
La Virgen de Altagracia, however, whose basilica is in Higüey and
who also has a church in Santo Domingo’s Zona Colonial, has developed a
far larger following of the faithful in recent years. She is the
patroness of the Dominican Republic (whereas the Virgin de las Mercedes
is the patroness of the entire island, including the Republic of Haiti)
and her saint’s day is an official Dominican holiday.
Issues
in Caribbean Amerindian Studies (Occasional Papers of the Caribbean Amerindian
Centrelink), Vol. 3, Feb 2001 - Feb 2002.
|
You are invited to share any of
your comments or criticisms of this paper with the author, at:
|
|
lynneguitar@yahoo.com
|
Added to the Caribbean
Amerindian Centrelink on:
Sunday, 18 February,
2001
|
|
